Don't Get Caught Out in the Cold: Your Essential Guide to Winterizing a Trailer Home
Hey there! As those crisp autumn days give way to the unmistakable chill of winter, many of us start dreaming of cozy nights by the fire. But if you own a trailer home, especially one that sits through freezing temperatures, there's a really important job on your to-do list: winterizing a trailer home. Trust me, skipping this step isn't just a minor oversight; it can lead to massive headaches, burst pipes, and repairs that'll make your wallet weep. Nobody wants to discover a flooded kitchen come spring because a pipe froze solid and burst, right?
Winterizing might sound like a daunting task, full of technical jargon and complicated steps. But honestly, it's mostly about common sense and a bit of elbow grease. Think of it as putting your home to sleep for the winter – a safe, sound, and protected sleep. I'm going to walk you through the process, step by step, just like I'd explain it to a friend. We'll cover everything from your water system, which is usually the biggest concern, to keeping pests out and ensuring your appliances are ready for the long haul.
The Absolute Must-Do: Protecting Your Water System
This is, without a doubt, the most critical part of winterizing a trailer home. Water expands when it freezes, and if it's trapped in your pipes, water heater, or toilet, it's going to cause some serious damage.
Draining All the Water
First things first, you need to get every drop of water out of your system. 1. Disconnect from City Water: Unhook any external water lines. 2. Drain Freshwater Tank: Find your freshwater tank drain valve (usually underneath the trailer) and open it up. Let it run until it's completely empty. 3. Drain Water Heater: This is super important! Turn off the power to your water heater first, both electric and gas. You don't want to burn out the element. Once it's off, open the pressure relief valve at the top and then locate the drain plug at the bottom of the tank. Be careful, as the water might still be hot. Let it drain completely. Many people also remove the anode rod here to let it drain fully and inspect/replace the rod. 4. Drain Grey and Black Tanks: Make sure your greywater (sinks, shower) and blackwater (toilet) tanks are emptied and flushed thoroughly. You don't want any nasty surprises lingering over winter. 5. Open All Faucets: Go inside and open all hot and cold faucets – kitchen sink, bathroom sink, shower. Don't forget the outdoor shower if you have one! Flush the toilet a few times too. This helps relieve pressure and allows remaining water to escape.
Blowing Out the Lines (Optional, but Recommended!)
Some folks prefer to blow out the lines with compressed air before adding antifreeze. This really helps to ensure no water is left behind. 1. Get an Air Compressor: You'll need an air compressor and an adapter that screws into your city water inlet. 2. Set Pressure Low: Set your compressor to no more than 30-40 PSI. Higher pressure can damage your plumbing! 3. Go Faucet by Faucet: With all faucets closed except for one, connect the air compressor. Open the farthest faucet first (usually a bathroom sink) until only air comes out. Close it, then move to the next faucet, and so on. Don't forget the toilet and shower. 4. Bypass Water Heater: If you have a water heater bypass kit, engage it before blowing out lines, so you don't fill the heater with air.
Adding RV Antifreeze
Now for the final, crucial step to protect your plumbing from freezing. Make sure you use RV or marine antifreeze, which is non-toxic and specifically designed for potable water systems. Never use automotive antifreeze; it's extremely toxic! 1. Bypass Water Heater: Again, ensure your water heater is bypassed. You don't want to fill 6-10 gallons of antifreeze into it – that's a huge waste! 2. Use a Winterizing Kit or Pump: Many trailer homes have a winterizing kit with a siphon hose for your freshwater pump. If not, you can pour antifreeze directly into your freshwater tank (though this uses a lot more) or use a hand pump at your city water inlet. 3. Pump Through Lines: Turn on your RV's water pump. Starting with the faucet closest to the pump, open the cold side until pink antifreeze comes out. Close it. Then open the hot side until pink comes out. Continue this for every faucet, shower, and the toilet until you see pink antifreeze. 4. Don't Forget the Toilet and Drains: Flush the toilet a few times until pink antifreeze appears in the bowl. Pour a cup or two down each sink and shower drain to protect the P-traps. 5. External Connections: Don't forget your outdoor shower (if you blew out the lines, this should be taken care of, but run some antifreeze through it just in case).
Exterior Protection: Keeping the Elements Out
Once your internal organs are protected, it's time to look at the skin of your trailer home. 1. Seal It Up: Walk around your trailer home and check for any cracks, gaps, or holes. Critters love to find warm spots, and drafts waste heat (even if you're not heating it, drafts can cause localized cold spots). Use caulk or expanding foam to seal them up. 2. Inspect the Roof: Check your roof for any potential leaks. Repair any cracks in sealant around vents, skylights, or seams. A leaky roof can cause huge water damage over winter. 3. Protect the Underside: If your trailer home isn't fully skirted, consider insulating exposed pipes or adding temporary skirting to protect against wind and extreme cold. 4. Tires (if stationary): If your trailer will be parked for months, consider covering the tires to protect them from UV damage and dry rot. Also, check the air pressure; cold weather can cause pressure drops.
Interior Prep: A Cozy Cocoon for the Cold Months
The inside of your trailer home needs a little love too, even if you won't be living in it. 1. Pest Control: This is a big one. Remove all food items that might attract mice or insects. Clean out the pantry and fridge thoroughly. Consider placing mouse traps or deterrents (peppermint oil, dryer sheets) in strategic locations. 2. Appliances: Defrost and clean your refrigerator and freezer. Leave their doors ajar (if safe to do so) to prevent mold and mildew growth and to allow air circulation. Turn off the power to them. 3. Electronics: Unplug all electronics. If you're really concerned about extreme cold or humidity, you might consider removing sensitive electronics like TVs or computers. 4. Moisture Control: Place moisture absorbers (like DampRid) in various areas to combat condensation and mildew. 5. Propane Tanks: Turn off the valves on your propane tanks. You can leave them connected, but ensure they're off. 6. Furniture and Fabrics: Lift cushions to allow air circulation. If you have valuable linens or clothing, store them in sealed containers or remove them from the trailer.
A Final Walk-Through and What to Monitor
After all that hard work, do a complete walk-through. - Are all windows and doors securely latched? - Are all vents closed (unless you have specific passive ventilation)? - Is the propane off? - Are all water systems thoroughly drained and/or filled with antifreeze?
Even after you've winterized, it's a good idea to check on your trailer home periodically throughout the winter, especially after severe cold snaps. Just pop in, check for any signs of intrusion, leaks, or condensation.
Winterizing a trailer home isn't just a chore; it's an investment in your home's longevity and your peace of mind. Taking the time to do it right now will save you countless hours and dollars in repairs down the line. It might seem like a bit of a marathon, but trust me, waking up to a pristine, intact trailer home next spring is absolutely worth every minute.
So, gather your supplies, put on some tunes, and get to it. You've got this! Enjoy your winter, knowing your trailer home is safe and sound.